Cultural Appropriation In Fashion
Cultural Appropriation in Fashion
Cultural appropriation in the realm of fashion refers to the adoption or use of elements from one culture by members of another culture, particularly when the dominant culture borrows from disadvantaged or marginalized groups. This phenomenon often occurs without permission or proper respect and acknowledgment, leading to a range of social, ethical, and legal issues.
Historical Context
Throughout history, fashion has been a vibrant tapestry woven from diverse cultural threads. For instance, the Chinoiserie style, which emerged in the 17th and 18th centuries, exemplifies how Western fashion designers incorporated Chinese motifs and aesthetics. While sometimes an homage, such incorporations have also been criticized for embodying exoticism and Orientalism, which can strip cultural elements of their original meaning and context.
Modern Examples
In contemporary fashion, the tendency to appropriate is particularly pronounced. High-profile brands and designers often draw inspiration from a variety of cultural sources, sometimes sparking backlash. For instance, fashion labels have faced criticism for using sacred symbols, such as Native American war bonnets, as mere accessories. Similarly, the use of Palestinian tatreez, an intricate form of embroidery, by designers such as Nili Lotan, has been labeled as appropriation by critics and cultural advocates.
Ethical Considerations
Ethically, the issue of cultural appropriation in fashion raises significant questions about power dynamics and respect. The essay "Eating the Other: Desire and Resistance" by bell hooks addresses the act of 'othering' that occurs when dominant groups consume cultural elements without acknowledgment or compensation. This can lead to commodification, wherein cultural symbols are reduced to mere commodities in a capitalist framework.
Legal Implications
The legal landscape surrounding cultural appropriation in fashion is complex, as intellectual property laws do not always protect traditional cultural expressions. Susan Scafidi, a scholar in cultural appropriation and fashion, has explored the challenges in legally safeguarding the creativity and rights of indigenous and marginalized communities within the global industry.
Cultural Appreciation vs. Appropriation
A critical distinction must be made between cultural appreciation and appropriation. Appreciation involves a respectful exchange of cultural elements with acknowledgment and permission. However, appropriation often entails a superficial and exploitative approach, where cultural elements are adopted without proper understanding or respect.
Voices and Activism
Activists such as Adrienne Keene have been pivotal in critiquing and raising awareness about cultural appropriation in fashion. Platforms like her blog "Native Appropriations" dissect instances of appropriation and advocate for the rights of indigenous peoples and other marginalized groups.
The Global Fashion Industry
The global fashion industry, valued at approximately $1.77 trillion as of 2022, is a capitalist enterprise that frequently exploits cultural elements. In exhibitions showcasing the appropriation of fashion elements from cultures such as Mali, Algeria, and China, the complex interplay of influence, power, and exploitation becomes evident.